The only reason you'd have power for an alarm system run to the tank would be if the alarm system was at the tank, in my experience. Normal wiring would be your alarm box inside gets power, some (often low-voltage) sensor wires run from your alarm box inside to the float in the tank outside, if you short the wires (via switch or manually) you get an alarm condition. The missing float is one thing, but two separate breakers for a septic alarm (one to the tank, the other to an alarm box inside) is not normal and that should make you check your assumptions at the door, pronto. This sounds oddly wired, to say the least. Since it's nearly impossible to get a plumber or septic repair person out, I need to get this done myself, but I'm a bit lost on whether the float switch wasn't suitable, or whether the tankalert box inside is shot, improperly wired (or all 3?). Hitting "test" on the box generates the audible alarm (but no flashing light), for whatever that's worth. I could feel the ball bearing switch inside moving to the closed and open positions, but the alarm inside never sounded.
None of these were available, so I purchased the closest thing I could find, a barracuda (branded also SJE Rhombus Universal float switch), and I attached an outlet to the leads, confirmed I had power, then plugged this float in, then manually tipped it up and down.
( ) It normally takes this type of float switch (a normally open one) ( ) Inside the house the alarm unit is an SJE Tankalert XT. They're just wire nutted and dangling.ĮDIT: That power lead appears to be properly connected to the tank alert inside the house. There, I discovered (among other, scarier things) that the cable and leads to the septic alarm are connected to nothing. The electrical is in there, rather than outside on a pedestal as is normal now. While tracing some errant electrical current, I ended up in the big concrete riser above the septic tank.
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